The Thai New Year (Songkran) is celebrated every year between April 13 to April 15. The Thai word Songkran means “move” or “change place”, since in the past, the exact date of the New Year has been determined in accordance with the astrological calendar, in the day when the sun changes its position in the zodiac. Nowadays the date is fixed and the New Year is considered more of a national event then religious celebration.

Even so, the Thai New Year has a highly traditional meaning and ambience. This festival is referred to as a family and elderly day. An extended family gathering in honor of the New Year celebration is widely accepted, while young people are expected to respect their parents and oldest relatives by bringing them small gifts. In return, the elders bless their young relatives and wish them good luck.

In addition to the family concept surrounding the Thai New Year, there’s also a communal meaning. In preparation for the festival, neighbors cooperate with each other in different communal activities, such as cleaning houses, temples and public places.

Finally, during the holiday people visit temples in order to give food and alms to monks, clean Buddha statues and pray. In many cities festive parades are held, in which the participants carry Buddha statues.

The main symbol of this festival is water. Water symbolizes cleaning, renewal and purification. Consequently, in any settlement that respects itself the festival celebration and parade is usually accompanied by throwing water. Traditionally, it should be small amount of water poured on the other’s hands as a sign of respect; at least, that’s what I was told a day before the festival. Phailin, the owner of the Internet center in Haad Rin, explained to me that I should expect that people would bless me and pour some water on my hands… I’d saw it as a good deal, so in the next morning I packed my video and digital cameras and took a taxi to Thong Sala, along with my daughter.

In retrospect, I can honestly say that visiting Thong Sala during the New Year festival was in fact a very good idea, whereas taking the cameras was the most absurd idea right after wearing fur coat on the beach and/or ordering continental breakfast in authentic Thai restaurant. Throwing water on people had apparently lost its traditional meaning, and turned into exhilarating fun and ecstatic experience.

At the very moment we arrived in Thong Sala we found out, that everybody except from us was armed with water pistols, jugs and a bucket, and on every corner we should expect to be attacked by water. The amounts of water thrown at us were enough to grow cucumbers in the Sahara through the year. Since the festival is held during the hottest season of the year, I could actually enjoy it if not for the cameras. No one in Thong Sala had any sentiments for my cameras. Luckily, the camera bag was of superior quality, but I couldn’t rely on it till the end of the day… as I tried to escape from couple of wicked children with water pistols, I entered the first shop I’d saw and bought a new bag with thick lining. Only then I could join the festival with no misgivings… In the evening, we were back at our resort completely wet, but jolly and happy all the while.

Thailand (Formerly Siam) is a Far East country, geographically located in the center of the Southeast Asia peninsula. Thailand borders Myanmar on the west and northwest, Laos on the north and east, Cambodia on the southeast, and the Gulf of Thailand and Malaysia on the south. The country is divided into 76 provinces. Bangkok is the capital and the largest city in Thailand.

In the northern side of Thailand rise 2595-meter-high mountains. One of the west ranges continues to the south direction, alongside the Myanmar’s border. Mekong River on the northeast delimits the Laos border. On the Southeast Cambodian border, Thailand is surrounded by a lower mountain range.

In the South of Thailand one can find the famous Thai island resorts, including Phuket and Koh Phi Phi in the Southwest side (Andaman sea), and Samui Archipelago in the Southwest side (The Gulf of Thailand). Koh Phangan, one of Samui Archipelago islands, is placed about 744 km south of Bangkok, 100 km east of Surat Thani coast, and about 12 km north of the bigger and well developed island Koh Samui, which serves as an air link to Koh Phangan. If you prefer exploring several different places to staying in one island – you may consider visiting Koh Samui, an island offering the common traveler an infinity of entertainment options, and Koh Tao, which is widely known as the divers’ paradise.

Koh Phangan is Thailand’s fifth biggest island and third largest island in the Gulf of Thailand after Koh Chang and Koh Samui. Its area is about 170 km2; although I don’t really know what 170 km2 means, it is definitely not that big. If you’re traveling around the island by jeep, you can briefly see the most of it within 3 hours – if you’re not involved during that travel in a car accident, which is not uncommon in Koh Phangan.

The population of Koh Phangan includes 10,000 habitats (according to the Lonely Planet guide); 12,000 habitats (according to the local guide Koh who will be mentioned later); or 15,000 habitats (according to another page in the Lonely Planet guide). In accordance with my own estimation, there are about 200 locals and 20,000 tourists, and counting.

About 60% of Koh Pha Ngan territory is covered with mountains, and about 90% of it is populated by a deep tropical forest. Whereas the east of Koh Phangan is mostly mountainous - the west side is full of picturesque sea-beaches. If you’re the enthusiastic, sporty traveler kind – you have an excellent opportunity to climb one the highest mountain peaks in the island, Khao Ra (630m). The trail can be steep and difficult to follow at times, and it can take up to 6 hours. For the reasons mentioned above, it is strongly recommended to hire a guide… I have a confession to make. I’ve seriously considered this trail, and the local guide even praised me as a brave adventurer, “just like him”. After climbing another mountain - just a little bit higher than the wrinkles of a blanket left on the beach – I seated myself on a rock and pretended to be terribly busy in observing the landscape, which, as I boldly stated in the ears of my guide: “usually takes no less than half an hour to be successfully achieved ”.

Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this splendid restaurant, and I’m not sure that it has a name at all. Anyway, the restaurant can be easily found at the beginning of the main [and the only] street of Thong Nai Pan Noi. The owner, operator and cook are the same man, and there are only two tables at the restaurant. You can come anytime and enjoy his delicious food – but you can’t choose from the menu. This man cooks and serves only what he caught in the morning of your arrival. If he caught fish – you can have a fish, if he caught shrimps – you can have shrimps and so on. But you are free to ask him to make things less spicy. To be honest, I’m jealous of this man, for his high professionalism and for his deep connection to what he does.

Take my word for it: Thai cuisine is superior. But if you are satiated with it and prefer to take an advantage of something different – try the Om Ganesh Indian restaurant in Haad Rin Nai, Koh Phangan. It’s suitable for Indian food enthusiasts, and… actually to anybody. The variety of dishes is impressive, including all Indian dishes you can think of: curry, tandoori, naan bred and much more. The restaurant also features an art gallery and a gift shop.

Pictures of Thailand fishing boats were the main purpose of my first attempt to carry out the “photograph tour”. Since I’ve noticed the fishing boats next to the Ao Chaloklum during the Boat Trip, I was really curious about the fishermen’s way of life. The only problem was, that as a Leela Beach’s resident I neither had an idea about the fishermen’s village location, nor have I known that it’s name was Chaloklum.

So I picked up my camera and went to the only place in Koh Phangan I knew an access to at that time: Haad Rin. On Haad Rin, I made a call home and ask the phone center operator for the exact location of the “local villages”. The operator, 40 years old cheerful lady, said, “You can’t go there. It’s extremely dangerous”. I refused to believe her, but she explained, “It’s in the heart of the jungle. You put yourself at a risk of being bitten by snake, and even being attacked by tiger!”

I probably looked disappointed to her, as she asked, “Want to take a picture?” – “Yes” – “Go straight to the beach, turn left, turn right – you have an excellent view”. On my way back to the resort I wondered whether my question was too ethnocentric. Anyway, I decided to never ask local people again about local villages’ location. The paradox was that everything I had to do was to open the guidebook. The fishermen village Chaloklum, surrounded by resorts and picturesque beaches, is one of the most famous sites in Koh Phangan.

This village features some cheap and very fine seafood restaurants; these restaurants usually serve dishes made of fresh locally caught fish and seafood. There are also several bars and diving schools, and of course the fishing boats located near the beach.

The Corner Pub is a central, crowded pub in Koh Phangan, situated next to the Chicken Corner in Haad Rin. The Corner was my daughter’s favorite pub, so that we used to visit it many times. No doubt the friendly waiter Jim contributed a lot to our enjoyment, since every time we visited the Corner pub, we had a good laugh and solid conversation with him.

The Corner’s menu suggested a rich variety of western and Thai style dishes, and alcohol drinks. Since the bar had two TV sets, one could enjoy every now and then, watching a football broadcast as well as a good drink and a lovely company.

The Beach: Haad Rin
Location: South East & West
Short Description: The partygoers’ beach.
Haad Rin in Koh Phangan offers a rich variety of accommodation and other facilities, characterized by high density, and proximity to the full moon party location.
Detailed Description.

The Beach: Haad Seekantang (Leela)
Location: South West
Short Description: The suburb beach.
Leela Beach in Koh Phangan offers proximity to Haad Rin, high standard accommodation and tranquility all together to anyone who can afford it.
Detailed Description.

The Beach: Haad Yuan
Location: South East
Short Description: The old school beach.
Haad Yuan in Koh Phangan Characterized by low density, located 10 minutes by boat from Haad Rin, no easy access by land.
Detailed Description.

The Beach: Haad Thian
Location: South East
Short Description: The Healthy Life Beach.
Detailed Description.

The Beach: Bottle Beach (Haad Khuat)
Location: North East
Short Description: The perfect sand beach.
Bottle Beach in Koh Phangan is a remote beautiful beach, surrounded by mountains, perfect for backpackers, long stayers and romanticists.
Detailed Description.

The Beach: Haad Sadet
Location: North East
Short Description: The Sadet Waterfall’s beach.
Haad Sadet in Koh Phangan is a quiet, remote, and a perfect place for swimmers and natural beauty unspoiled lovers.
Detailed Description.

The Beach: Haad Thong Reng
Location: North East
Short Description: The Lonely Island beach.
This beach is as remote and quiet as one can only dream.
Detailed Description.

The Beach: Thong Nai Pan
Location: North East
Short Description: The Quality-of-Life Beach. 
Detailed Description.

The Beach: Haad Yao
Location: North West
Short Description: The Contemplation Beach.
Detailed Description.

Koh Phangan has been officially recognized as the zone of eco tourism. I’ve heart about it long before I’ve arrived in Koh Phangan – but I was wrong in my interpretation of the concept “eco tourism”. I was sure that “eco tourism” is an expression of tourist consciousness, that usually means trekking mountains, crossing forests and observing far-flung, lonely sea beaches without polluting your environment, destroying the savage nature and throwing empty glass bottles, plastic bags and cigarette butts in the realm of wild nature. However, during my visit in Koh Phangan I found out, that “eco tourism” is something completely different. In fact, “Eco tourism” means adventure travel, undertaken to witness sites or regions of unique natural or ecologic quality, so you guys will have the unique opportunity to throw your empty glass bottles, plastic bags and cigarette butts in the wild corners of nature, where no man has ever set foot before.

“Eco – Nature Tour” in Kon Phangan organized by “Phangan Safari”. This tour includes an elephant trekking; visiting the Chinese Temple on the North West; trekking in Phaeng Waterfall National Park; snorkeling in Koh Ma; and visiting the Than Sadet waterfall. The full lunch, free beverages and the famous homemade ice cream are included. The cost of the tour is approx 1,700 baht for each – fairly high in comparison to Koh Phangan standards, but realtively worthwhile considering the private guidance you’ll receive.

Useful Information 

Phangan Safari
Chaloklum, tel. 01-8953783

Phangan Safari Eco-Nature Tour
Price Estimation: 1,700 baht for one day tour with personal guide
Chaloklum, tel. 077-374159, 07-5926991 

The Little Home restaurant is one of the main discoveries of my Koh Phangan research project (the private unorganized initiative to discover the best restaurants on the island. All the research’s funds were raised using a modest credit card). Go straight to the Chicken Corner, turn left to the pier, pass the 7 eleven market, and on your right side you will be able to recognize the ridiculously neglected interior design of the Little Home restaurant, with plastic maps and no walls. The food is unbelievably cheap and tasty. It’s a kind of Westernized “Thai Style” food (don’t insist on having the real “Thai Style” meal. It makes you feel like hosting a campfire party in your mouth). You should try their yellow curry and red curry dishes, but everything else will be of the same superior quality.

If you were planning an adventurous travel to Thailand – the Southern “Paradise” islands wouldn’t probably be your first choice. Surprisingly enough, in Koh Phangan you may find out that even real, “hardcore” adventures are ready to be picked and can even be quite enjoyable. There are varieties of open-air activities in Koh Phangan, and you don’t have to be neither experienced nor wealthy to take a part in the most exciting ones.

An unspoiled tropical forest covers Koh Phangan, and experienced trekkers can walk through significantly challenging trails over there – e.g. up to the tallest mountain Khao Ra. On the other hand, there are some easy and fun treks, which can also be savored by the more lazy adventurer wannabes like myself. These include one of the most amazing treks in Phaeng Waterfall National Park, recommended for anyone who appreciates a real genuine beauty; the two hours Bottle beach trek; and the popular trek from Haad Rin.

Useful Information
The list of popular treks
Khao Ra - the highest peak in Koh Phangan
Phaeng Waterfall National Park
Bottle Beach on the North West of Koh Phangan
Haad Yuan and Haad Thian beaches on the South East of Koh Phangan
 

If you travel with your children – safari Eco- Nature Tour, including the jeep journey around the island, elephant trekking, snorkeling in Koh Ma (where is also located the best diving and snorkeling site in Koh Phangan) and visiting the most important viewpoints and waterfalls – is perfect for you.

Useful Information
Phangan Safari
Chaloklum, tel. 01-8953783

It is also possible to combine some of the activities above by taking a part in a boat tripor a road trip around Koh Phangan.

Useful Information
Reggae Magic Boat Trip
Haad Rin, tel. 01-0859137
Snoop Dogg Boat Trip
Haad Rin, tel. 09-5293828, 077-375364

Ang Thong National Marine Park is a group of 42 islands, protected as a National Park. The park features lime stone massifs, deserted sea beaches and tropical rainforests. A typical journey to the park can be arranged either as a day trip or as a camping trip.

Useful Information
Rin Beach Tours - Trip to Ang Thong Marine Park
Haad Rin, tel. 077-375385
Lastly, in Koh Phangan you will also have the opportunity to do some mountain biking. Bikes can be hired in most towns and villages for as low as 80-120 baht per day. (For those of you who think a vacation in “Paradise” can’t be an adventurer’s “Paradise” as well!)